nancy duffy's walking dress

I was asked by the Smithfield Community Association to make a dress for their honorary chairperson, Nancy Duffy for the Peterboro Civil War Days, I immediatly had visions of this dress. I had spyed the striped fabric at my favorite fabric store and found the robin's egg blue wool to match. I had bought the same color ribbon 6 months previous and the embroiderd trim just called out, take me.

The bodice was made with the Simplicty #7212 pattern. I am really impressed with Simplicity these days. They have come out with a few really acurate patterns. The sleeves are different and I never use a pattern for skirts unless they are shaped. The fabric was box pleated to a waistband. The underskirt is sewn into the same waist band. An original probably would have had 2 skirts but for time I sewed them together. The blue trim on the bodice and the belt are velvet ribbon. I covered the buttons with the blue wool. The undersleeves tie above the elbow and the collar is detachable.

Back view shows the ribbon trim. You wouldn't know it but there is a small bustle pad under the hoop. It rests right at the bottom of your spine just like the bigger bustles of latter eras. Believe it or not it is period. On some women the hoop creates a hollow in the small of the back. Women used the small pad to fill out the unslightly gap.